Silk

Fusion seems to be the cuisine of the moment in Atlanta, no doubt a symptom of its increasing gentrification. That's no bad thing (fusion that is, rather than gentrification) as long as it means more places like Silk (919 Peachtree Street, Midtown).

Silk is Anna and Raymond Hsu's most recent addition to the Atlanta restaurant scene (after Hsu's Chinese restaurant and the Pacific Rim Bistro, both downtown). The slick decor offers lots of wood panelling and exposed vent tubes, with a choice of booths (with Thai silk cushions), tables, a cool pivoted glass-panel private room and a sushi bar with individual LCD screens. The menus are held together with chopsticks (ironically, they don't give you these for eating with) and offers a selection of Japanese 'tapas', seafood, sushi and sashimi, and steak and lobster. I chose some shredded duck breast grilled dumplings with dipping sauce (not extraordinary, but quite tasty) and, at the waiter's recommendation, seared tuna with black pepper, zucchini in a funky wasabi bechamel sauce and pickled red ginger. The tuna was delicious, although it leaves you a little confused at first, until you figure out that it's seared with holy basil and oregano, which is a very strange combination. Dessert was another of the waiter's recommendations: a huge Fuji apple double-dipped in caramel and dark chocolate, drizzled with white chocolate and encrusted with crushed pecans - that's a serious dessert. On the slight downside, their green tea was too strong, and their coffee's not so great. But the maître d' is really cute.... oh, did I type that?

Menu

Dumplings

Seared tuna

Mt Fuji Apple