Monday, June 12, 2006

Kikuchi

Were it not for the write-up displayed on the window describing this as "probably the best Japanese restaurant in London", it might never even occur to you to walk into Kikuchi (14 Hanway Street, London W1P 9DD). In fact, on first impression you might think that this is a place frequented only by Yakuza and middle aged, married men drenched in sake paying a little too much attention to the cute waitresses.

The minimum charge for dinner is 20 pounds per person, but once you've made the choice, there's a bounty of tempting dishes to explore on the menu, and you'd potentially have no trouble spending twice or three times that amount. The omakase sushi (chef's selection) seems a good place to start: 12 pieces of assorted nigiri (including toro, tuna, seabream, mackerel and three kinds of roe), delicately presented, generously-sized super fresh fish. This might actually be the best sushi in London - certainly the best I've had. The omakase sashimi is equally good, and the grilled soy cod is to die for: flaky, tender and infused with soy marinade. For some excellent maki, try the toro and leek rolls, and for something more unusual, the deep fried pork rolls with asparagus is interesting. The wasabi is grainier and nicer than the powdery paste you get in most other places. Overall, a great choice if you wanna treat yourself to some quality sushi and try some unusual dishes that you may not find elsewhere. But I don't think it'll replace the Centre Point Sushi Café as my favourite sushi hangout.

Omakase sushi

Omakase sashimi

Toro and leek maki

Grilled soy cod

Deep fried pork and asparagus rolls

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